Day Three - April 1

Maria Elena had said this was going to be our longest day -- 42 kilometers -- so it was with dismay that we saw it begin to rain just as we were getting ready to meet up with our horses in a nearby field. On went the rain pants, the oilcloth coats, the waterproof gloves, etc. But it proved to be just a light sprinkle. We were glad to have all our gear on, though -- a sharp wind was blowing as we set out, fortunately at our backs.   Adrian, feeling poorly after his fall the day before, stayed behind. We walked and cantered -- many canters -- through grassy open fields, with a little scrub and grass and not much vegetation otherwise. Because it was quite flat we could see for miles around, all plains (yes, in Spain) and very little sight of habitation.  

 The horses were a bit fresh at the beginning, though less so than the day before. They were even calm enough that I could take a short video. 

 It was as if the route had been made for horses; there was even a sandy/loam road on which we had some long canters. The mountains were on our right as we headed north. 

We had another lovely snack and headed off on a narrow dirt road through those trees that look like olive orchards but aren't. Maria Elena explained that they are holm oaks, which produce a sweet acorn that is eaten by pigs that are then turned into Iberian ham, that soft thin-cut ham that is so yummy. We climbed through the orchard and came out on top of a line of hills that afforded us a view of ALL the surrounding countryside, from the snow-capped mountains on our right to the grassy plains below to some low white cliffs dead ahead. Did I mentioned it had long ago stopped raining? 

Another long canter on top of the hills, then down to a small church behind which a table had been set up under a canopy. We got the horses set for lunch, each with his own bucket at his position along a tie line, then sat down for a lunch prepared by Lucia, wife of Oleg (pictured on the right)

Oleg is always there when we leave and arrive, adjusting equipment, doing girths, leading horses to the mounting block and otherwise making us feel spoiled. Speaking of which, lunch was five courses -- seafood soup, pasta with tuna, fish with vegetables, or chicken and salad, strawberries and homemade pastries. Seriously. And wine, bien sur.

Fortunately, it was only an hour's walk to Pedraza, the hilltop town where we stayed overnight. It was the capital of a feudal fiefdom back in the day, Maria Elena said. Now, only 105 people live there, according to the local pharmacist, but there are also plenty of nice limestone second homes, with the terra cotta tile roofs, of course.

 We all had drinks in a local pub (photo by Adrian)

and then a nice dinner at the hotel.